Day Twelve Okinawa

DAY TWELVE OKINAWA: Monday September 16, 2013

On Monday we headed to a historical site called the 'Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters' that proved to be an educational and emotional site.   This particular site was renovated and opened to the public in the 1970's.   As a student I took several classes on World War II but they largely focused on the European front.  My knowledge of the Western offensive is largely relegated to the large key battles that occurred.  Okinawa had been an independent island that was taken over by the Japanese and this led to their involvement in the war.  In fact, according to the brochure, "the Okinawa Islands were the only populated Japanese home islands to experience large scale land battle" (Site Brochure).    After climbing up to the peak of the exterior hill you see this lovely yet haunting memorial.    

After you enter the initial entryway you pass by many photos from after the defeat of the Japanese Navy by the American forces.  The pictures are of surrender and suffering of the Okinawan people.  You proceed down a flight of stairs to the Museum and entryway to the tunnels.  In the museum you get the background of the Japanese Naval forces that had dug into to defend the area of Naha City when the American forces landed on April 1, 1945 (Site Brochure). The tunnels that were created for this headquarters were dug by the Okinawan people using hand tools.  Later you will see the pick ax tool markings that still score the walls of the tunnels.  

This exhibit in the museum area highlights the high cost of war.  This is a snapshot of the lives lost in this one particular area during the three month offensive on the island.

Although blurry, this is a photo of 1000 origami cranes that adorn the entryway to the actual tunnels.  The cranes were created to "represent grief and pray for world peace for those individuals that lost their lives during the war" (Site brochure).  

The descent begins.  The long tunnel appears to go on forever when you first begin the descent underground.  The walls seep water onto the stairs and the air begins to cool as you move slowly lower into the damp and musty air.  The first room is the operations room.  An artistic impression of the now empty room hangs on the wall to explain what would have occurred in this particular room. 

The original socket electrical systems remain on the wall (though not longer used).

As you move further into the tunnels you are taken next into the staff room.   This room hits you in an unexpected and unforeseen way.  It was in this room that commanding men pulled the pins from grenades for an honorable death rather than surrender to the American forces.   The small plaque on the wall that informs you of this fact also states that the pitting on the wall is from those explosions. 

The next few areas show the Commanding Officer's room and Code Room.  You can almost make out the tree branches/trunks that were used as support beams in the Code room.  There is also another artistic impression of how the dirt was removed from the tunnels by the Okinawan workers.

The next area was a Medical Room, which really was just an alcove off of the tunnel.

This is one of three generator areas where you can still see the original foundation supports for the generators.

Next was the Petty Officers Quarters, which again was a very small alcove.  In fact the plaque stated that often there was not enough room for the men so they would simply sleep standing up in between the bunks. 

This exit, which is the only daylight that comes into the tunnels, was where the last stand occurred.  It was this tunnel exit that poorly armed men would have streamed out to fight the final battle against the American forces.   

The last room is the signal room which holds great significance for the Okinawan people.  This is where Admiral Minoru Ota, the commanding officer of the Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters, sent his farewell telegram to inform the Japanese of the battle situation.   This telegram was highly important to the native people (as evidenced by the posting of the entire text in the Museum, in the Tunnels, In the brochure, and parts repeated on many signs and plaques) as it commended the Okinawan people for their efforts to support the war.  

This is an excerpt from this highly important telegram:

             "The Okinawan people have been asked to volunteer their labor and conserve all their resources (mostly without complaint.)  In their heart, they wish only to serve as loyal Japanese.  Finally, ----.  This battle is nearing its end, the situation of the island of Okinawa -----.

             There are no trees, no grass; everything is burnt to the ground.  The food supply will be gone by the end of June.  This is how the Okinawan people have fought the war.

            And for this reason, I appeal to you to give the Okinawan people special consideration from this day forward."  (Site Brochure)   *Note ---- are words that could not be deciphered

 This last picture is of the informational board that is at the end of the tunnels (that are open to the public) the pictures show Japanese commanders, US commanders and what the area looked like at the time of the battle.    

"On June 13, 1945, Admiral Ota, with many of his officers and men, died and honorable death inside the underground.  According to the intelligence section of the Sixth Marine Division, 175 bodies were found." (Site Brochure)

Perspective is something that is taught in school and it is a hard concept to learn.  Even as an adult it is hard to look at these historical sites without being influenced by previous knowledge and the American perspective.  However, I tried to look at this with the perspective that we must remember the horrors of the past so that we are more encouraged to avoid those horrors in the future.  

Okay, so I did not want to end this post on a downer so I snapped this lovely picture of a Slot and Pachinco palace called the "Faroh"   :)  

Day Eight Okinawa

DAY EIGHT OKINAWA: Thursday September 12, 2013

Although I was still a bit under the weather, I grabbed some coffee and got in the car to see the Shurijo Castle.   When we arrived, this map was posted on the wall and I suddenly realized that I was completely turned around in my thinking.  I was under the impression that we headed south to go to the Aquarium and Ie Island, but actually we were heading north.  Ie island is actually the larger side island in the upper left corner of the map. So I took a picture of the map in order to share that knowledge with you.  The airport is in the lower left corner in a city called Naha.

Then it was on to the castle park.  There was a stamp collection map as well that went along with the tour of the grounds.  We got most of the stamps (I think we missed three) so there were many interesting sights to take in.  Much of this castle was actually leveled during World War II, but has been rebuilt and restored as close to accuracy as possible in order to preserve the cultural history of the Kingdom of Ryukyu Islands. 

This area was the exterior of the main castle area.  In this area is were trading and exchange often occurred. You would have to officially register at the gate just out of frame to the left.

From the registration gate there is a clear view of the land and ocean port that would fall under this castles realm.  The middle picture is the sundial "used to mark high noon as well as the hours before and after noon. A water clock was used to tell the more precise time" (Castle Tour Plaque). Interestingly the sundial's time is actually 30 minutes behind standard time in Japan.  The last picture is Seiden Bell hung in 1458.  It was a symbol of  the spirit of trade and hospitality.  This bell is famous for the intricate inscriptions on it (brochure). 

Unfortunately while we were there the main castle gate into the inner castle interior was undergoing some restoration work.

This is a picture of the main palace of the King of Ryukyu.  This was "the royal seat of the Ryukyu Kingdom for approximately 500 years" (brochure). Some particular items to notice are the dragons at the main peaks of the building and the dragon pillars on either side of the entrance.  The floor area is lined for ceremony and rank. Down in the corner is the modern tourist trap addition.

The next area on the tour was a no photo section where we had to remove our shoes.  This area had several of the elevated wooden floored rooms lined with mats and paper thin walls that are often depicted in media.  There are traditional tea rooms in this area and was mainly an area for servants or lower class nobles.

The next few pictures are from the interior of the King's quarters and throne rooms. The first picture is the remains of the actual castle foundation.  According to the plaque, "the castle was destroyed four times because of fires and the battle of Okinawa during World War II" (Tour Plaque).  They build the restored castle elevated above these ruins in order to preserve them.  The next picture is the main entrance to the Kings throne room on the second level.  The last is a picture of what the restorers believe the throne room looked like.

This next picture is a display model that is built to scale to show the ways in which the castle was used for ceremony.

Something that caught attention was found towards the end of the interior tour.  The G8 leaders actually met and dined within the walls of this castle in the 90's.  In attendance was then President Bill Clinton.

Within the castle there was a conduit system that was an important water source for the castle.  It was a series of drainage pools that continue to run downhill as they overflowed through a system of directed rock ditches as pictured on the left.  On the right is a fascinating tree that can only be accurately described as it is on the plaque beside it: "the Akagi is an evergreen broadleafed tree of the 'Todaigusa' family. Before the last was , its branches, some as thick as one meter in diameter, stretched towards the castle wall providing cool shade for a wide. Unfortunately, this tree was damaged during war leaving only its withered trunk which was later ravaged by a typhoon.  Today , an Akou tree (Mulberry family) has attached itself to the remaining trunk, barely giving us some idea of the tree's former splendor" (Tour Plaque).

The "Odo" pictured next was built to house a gift from the Korean King in the late 15th century (brochure).

After finishing off a good sweat at the castle it was back in the car to head for lunch.  We ended up at the Naha Treehouse Restaurant.   Hard to miss this massive restaurant nestled between a car rental facility and a small business plaza.   It looks impressive but once inside it is quite standard for appearance (the treehouse is mainly just the facade and in the elevator).  Now you can eat on the terrace, but today was not the day for that.  This establishment is evidently known for it's Shabu-Shabu.  This interesting dish is depicted below (along with the how to guide).  We also were seated in the Japanese style section, though this was not fully typical as it was more of a pit with a table and not a table at floor level.

Then is was back in the car, where I promptly fell asleep.  After dropping off some of our party at the house, I continued on with one of our hosts, back to the Hamby department store.  There I picked up some cold medicine (through a series of gestures and pointing) and a few odds and ends that I wanted to get, including shade gloves (to protect your forearms, mainly while driving, from sun).  I also stopped by the bakery to pick up this lovely confection I had tried on the previous visit.  I do not know what it is called, but I call it french toast bread and it is heavenly!

Well I have taken my medicine, updated my blog, and now I must to bed as I am sure tomorrow will be yet another full day!  It is just coming on morning in Kansas..... Have a good Thursday Kansas!